All at sea...

When my dear sister, Chris, asked me if I fancied joining her and Kim for a wee 10 day fishing trip, I should have really thought about what she meant by 'fishing...' but instead I simply agreed, thinking nothing of what it may entail...

Oh, was I in for a surprise...

We spent a day preparing the boat, fuelling up, water, supplies... I guess I should have put some time aside to prepare myself; rent a pair of sea-legs,  buy a few tubs of elbow grease, jump ashore and run away from the boat, you know; all those things that "had I known before we sailed..."

About half of the food required for three and a dog for ten days...

Rainbow over Opua and the 

We set off Monday 10th, and steamed off into the sunset, not quite in Owl and Pussycat fashion, although the trip seemed at times to be lasting a year and a day...

New moon and Venus at sunset as we steamed out of the Bay of Islands...

We steamed overnight, taking turns on watch - well, mine lasted 20 minutes alone before Kim got up; Chris had been reluctant to wake me as she had been occupied with a few ships and other boats, and was not likely to leave me - the only non-skipper aboard - to play cat and mouse with them...

Ahead, miles of ocean, and plenty of fish...

Even Finn holds higher rank than me on the Olwyn; a true salty sea dog...

Once we arrived at the fishing grounds, the first task - and one I never grew to like in the slightest - was to bait the hooks... We were setting the gear three times a day, and each set had 2-300 hooks, so there is only really one way to describe baiting: putting a shit-load of squid onto a shit-load of hooks, and trying not to end up wearing a shit-load of squid ink/entrails/guts...

I have absolutely no desire to eat Calamari in a very very long time...

The deck of the Olwyn, ready for setting the gear...

The target fish for the trip were Terakihi and Hapuka, but we also caught quite a lot of school shark and a few Kingfish. We did pull up a couple of 15 foot Mako sharks and a Blue shark,  but they get cut from the line and don't come aboard. The lines are set with a floating backbone above the sea bottom, and 'trots' of ten hooks that hang from the backbone down to the bottom, about 25 feet. There were around 20-30 trots on each set. The gear is set and left for a few hours, then hauled up.

The biggest Puka, weighed around 60-70kg...

Pacific sunset...

Found my spot, the only place where the constant roll of the boat was forgotten for a few minutes...

Orcas showed up a few times, usually when we were hauling, so we hauled bloody fast when they were around...

A good set, Puka and Terakihi...

The work was pretty damn hard; I tried to keep up with Chris and Kim, but without any proper sea-legs of my own, it took me a huge amount of effort to do what they seemed to do naturally... After three days of 6am starts I was fairly beaten... Chris was great, and encouraged me to only do what I felt capable of, although this left me at times sitting and reading while they worked, and I can't abide doing nothing while others are working... I got back into it again, although still struggled on deck, a few falls, and plenty of bruises from bouncing into things! 

Living quarters are obviously cramped, but fishing boats are not for living on... The engine cooling system is seawater, pumped out through a hose on deck that serves for hand washing, toilet flushing, and a quick, if salty, shower - I partook in one, but found that soap and salty water in my hair effectively set it solid... So a full week without a shower, covered in squid, salty and tired... I was so glad to come ashore...

bunks, mine the lower left...

Galley, lounge, office, dog's quarters...

The view from the loo!

Steaming home at last, the wind behind us and the weather setting in...

It was not only the work that was hard, everything you do is different because of the boat's movements... Some things I learned immediately, some took time... I worked out a survival guide for myself:

1. Remember to pee off the leeward side of the boat (I knew this from time sailing as a kid, with my dad). 

2. Only use the loo when steaming downwind, or when it is calm; what empties into the sea has a habit of returning with vengeance - Neptune's kiss has never been more apt a remark...

3. Roll cigarettes before making tea/coffee; once the mug is in your hand you can't put it down until it is empty.

4. Remember the order for hands: barrier cream in the morning, soap to wash, savlon in the evening to stem the infection as the squid gets into the sides of your fingernails...

5. Just accept that most things eaten, drank or smoked will be tainted with squid flavours... Just accept it...

6. Clothes... Forget it, they will just be covered in squid, salt, and will probably remain wet or damp the entire trip. And will hold shape after you remove them by the end of the trip...

7. Sleep... Wedge yourself into the bunk, else you'll roll with the boat all night...

8. Sugar... Drink tea with lots, the only way to keep going...

9. Eat when there's time, and eat fast as you may be hauling in 5 minutes...

10. Don't change your mind about going fishing... There is only one way to turn back: jump off the boat, and it's a long swim ashore...

Yes, it was tough, and yes there were moments when I regretted going. But it was an epic adventure, and one that I doubt many - if any - tourists or backpackers get to experience. Chris and Kim were great to take me, and to put up with my lesser work abilities, while showing me how to fish, and teaching me stuff all about fishing. I will never forget this trip, but I do know I have no intentions to board a fishing boat again... too many new tricks, and I am becoming a bit of an old dog for it...

As I came ashore, and away from the rolling boat, a day later and I am still finding my land legs... The ground continues to dance under me a bit, as I gradually lose the sense of rolling all the time...

Fishing... proper hard work, and I have done nothing but hugely grow my respect and admiration for those who make a living from this work...

The Shire...

Let the pictures tell the story, eh...

Welcome to The Shire...

Bag End!

The Shire

The Green Dragon, from Bag End...

How could I not do it..!

Samwise Gamgee's house...

The Party Tree...

The Green Dragon...

And yes: I had a drink in the Green Dragon..!

The Party Tree from inside the Green Dragon...

Fabulous place to visit, sooooo cool..!

The world we travel...

The couches are filled with travellers, each one seemingly glued to whatever wireless device they possess... Some on iPhones, some on tablets, kindles, and iPads, some with 17" MacBook pro's... all apparently travelling in their own way... they are intent on squeezing every possible megabyte from the  NZ$4 they have paid for 24 hours access... unlimited seems to need to be tested to its limits... But forgive me, for it is raining, and lake Taupo no more than a rumour, behind the mists and drizzle... Mt Doom hidden far beyond the reach of eyes, only the postcards belie its existence... But the web-travellers do not restrict themselves only to rainy days, nor are they solely people I see... I too, succumb to the net, my eyes taken by Facebook, blogger, emails... My excuse? trying to upload as many photographs as possible... flicking them off to anyone and everyone willing to come and travel through a glimpse of my journey... Ten years ago, travelling seemed a different story; I can only imagine what it was like 20, 30, 40 years ago, when a solitary monthly phone call absorbed a weeks worth of food money... But I was no traveller back then, nor even born... 

We make use of what we have at each point in our lives... keeping in touch with loved ones, showing off our hedonism and our relaxed moments in hot springs... the girl whose grandfather passed away this morning, desperate over a missed call, and trying, trying to get back in touch with family a nighttime and possibly ten thousand miles away; the lone traveller with girlfriend back home, desperate for every syllable uttered, every smiling silence shared even if only over the phone; the couple, engaged on a beach in Thailand, trying to share their great news with one and all... Everyone is a different story, a tale of love, smiles, happiness, desperation, torn hearts, and torn minds...we (for, at this brief time I too am a 'traveller') pass by, sharing glimpses of our experiences, each with the similar tales, told differently, and with different flavours... for some the bungee jump is their highest achievement, for some the sunset over Hawkes Bay, others the breathlessness of having completed the Tongariro Crossing - alive, and reporting home to mum and dad that "I am ok, and it was awesome..!" others, working their way around farms are desperate to share the sight (and possibly the smell too) of them covered in cowpoo, building their first ever compost heap... Nothing is out of the ordinary here, no tale brings looks of confusion from anyone, for the traveller is on a road with many many opportunities; forks in the road appear daily, sometimes hourly... life no longer has a plan... a brief sketch outlines an idea, each traveller their own architect, becoming foreman and builder each and every day...

The world has become smaller... and some of us find ourselves engrossed in how small it is, by looking at our screens for far too many minutes, hours each day... The forks in the road can be anticipated, each place already a map in the mind of pubs, bars, hostels, activities and people before even setting foot in them... Am I cynical? Not in the slightest... Do I regret my minutes and hours composing, swearing at various upload apps when they fail to work... No. For I wish to share... I desire others to witness my trip... And I still write postcards... although I struggle to see their recipients gleaning a new view, for they too, may have already been privy to my photographs on Facebook/blogger/email... But I know that as the posts disappear down their timelines, and the blog posts are forgotten, the postcard may still grace the bathroom door, the kitchen cupboard or notice board for weeks, months, even years... And my dearest loved ones receive and send text messages regularly... there is no harm in letting them know my movements, that I am ok - no; that I am great... There was a part of me that once wished to be able to disappear for weeks, without contact, being in my own world... But this was a selfish and idealistic view... my loved ones fully deserve to know each and every one of my movements... for they care, they love and cherish, and I have no desire for them to suffer worry...

The world continues to become smaller, cheaper, easier... Friendlier? Perhaps... but this is where we 'travellers' maybe lose out... Had I not switched off my iPad this morning and looked up, I would not have been able to give a bit of warmth and care to the girl whose grandfather just passed away, way back in the Caribbean... she was incredibly grateful for my words, she allowed herself to speak about it, her feelings, and her dilemma about whether or not to return home for the funeral... and she was able to talk it out instead of cry it out alone... Had I not switched off and returned to earth last night, I would not have been given news of a great app for campervan travel around the islands... We all share, if we look up once in awhile... We all give and receive when we are open... we are all in the same boat, different winds taking us anywhere and everywhere, passing in the breeze, sharing glimpses, ideas, news, information, and above all else, sharing our lives, for a few minutes, days, a week... The world is not just out there, it is right around us all the time... 

And now my world moves towards a new destination, another place never before visited, where I will meet and share again, give and learn... I will endeavour at each point to raise my head and switch off the screen for each person I meet...

Ciao for now...

A great week...

Well, since last post I have moved on a couple of times...

First, I finished up the work on the pig farm, nearly completing the farrowing shed, almost avoiding falling off a ladder, and some other work too:

Trying to take a timer photo, failing slightly...

Chopping firewood, and bringing it up to the house

Mark and Monique kindly brought me to Hohepa after the Sunday market; in front of my next home for a week at Hohepa.

I enjoyed the time with them, and could have stayed longer, but Hohepa had me booked...

I had a really great week at Hohepa; working mainly with Meike - from Germany, and Evelyn - from UK. There were 2 other wwoofers there, Alan - a Kiwi, and Marine from France; they both worked in the cheesery.

I did a range of work - obviously some weeding, which I enjoyed, even if Meike didn't believe me! Also harvesting and thinning crops, and sieving soil for seed planting. I experienced a whole community earthquake evacuation drill one day; Hohepa is right by the sea, and they need to prepare for the possibility of tsunamis following quakes. The whole community was evacuated in 15 minutes! 

One of the most fun jobs - as well as the hardest, was making a compost heap... It was 10x3 metres, and 1.5 m high, and took us a day, complete with mixing and throwing cowpoo... Afterwards we had a much needed and rewarding swim in the river!

A small part of the garden

Matting we pegged out for planting garlic.

Well, I couldn't resist!

Evelyn getting well into chucking haylage on the heap...

Meike loves her shit! Seriously though, she is a trained biodynamic gardener, and knows a thing or two about it... 

The end of the day, at the end of the heap... Was great work. With Gui who works as a farmer at Hohepa.

The skies at Hohepa were amazing, especially morning and evening...

On Saturday we had a free day, and i went to Napier with Evelyn. It was the first day of winter, but stayed at 20degrees most of the day, and we had ice cream on the beach!

Stupidly warm for winter... Lovely ice cream though, and such fine weather!

Yesterday we - me, Meike, Marine, Evelyn and Benjamin, a coworker from Hohepa - drove to Taupo, and stayed a night in a hostel. We walked to the Huka falls

And then went to sit in a hot pool, where the water is as hot as a very warm bath!

Sitting in the steam, was so warm, and an amazing experience!

I really did nearly fall asleep!

Today we hired mountain bikes and rode some of the trails around Taupo - some fantastic singletrack with a few small jumps

We also visited the a place called the craters of the moon, where thermal activity below ground sends steam up in clouds, and there is some boiling mud too...

Steam coming up all over the place!

I had a really good time with these guys; they went back to Hohepa, and I am in Taupo for another night before heading off again...

We finished off in Taupo, by the lake, with Mt Doom in the background!

Taupo is a crazy place, with things I have never seen before... I have ticked some of the 'must see' boxes on my NZ trip...

Since setting off on my own 3 weeks ago, I have had loads of fun, and met some great people and done lots of fun work. I am tempted to go back to Hohepa before I come home, it was one of the most fun weeks I have spent here!

Well, onwards now... Two more sisters to visit, in Hamilton and the Bay of Islands... I will visit some more places as well, perhaps heading further north if funds are ok then. 

Til next time, I am resting my aches now...